Jungle Living is Not for the Faint of Heart

The mototaxis met our plane at the Puerto Maldonado Airport. Little did we know then that they were symbols of our last sight of civilization or at least transportation by any other means than on foot or boat.For the seven of us and our two guides, we needed four mototaxis. We thought was funny that the taxis passed each other. Kate kept leaning out of the taxi she was in which worried us some. I think if she could have ridden on top, she'd have loved it.

This is the view from the mototaxi. Notice there are no cars on the road, only mototaxis and motorcycles.

The muddy Sandoval River is just behind the refreshment shack. We bought the last 8 bottles of cool water the owner took from the refrigerator, a camping ice chest. Javier, our Quechua guide and owner of Moroni Tours, bought us all gaseosas or soda pop as well. Then it was goodbye to civilization and life on the river and in the jungle. Margaret wanted a jungle experience but even she had no idea how rough it could be. How could any of us have known?

This picture puts a new meaning to the family car. We passed other families on motorcycles but I was able to get this shot from the mototaxi.

We traveled about two hours on the Sandoval River until we reached the lake entrance to the Mehia Family Lodge. This is the dock where we left the boat to hike into the lodge. Javier had told us it was a 45-minute hike--yeah--for teens and seasoned hikers. We hiked twenty minutes to a way station, a kind of visitors' center, where we registered and read about the flora and fauna. Then we hiked another two hours on heavily rutted roads caused by heavy rains.

On the last day on the Sandoval River we traveled upriver about two hours to a reserve where a North American and bought some property and created an educational center and reserve for rehabilitating animals, mostly abandoned wild monkeys, tapers, macaws, and other large birds. One of the most fun things was this canopy reachable by a rope ladder. Even Dad, he who is afraid of heights, climbed the ladder and walked above the jungle--200 feet up and across.

This is a picture of Ted on the canopy. Everyone but me did the canopy. I stayed behind in a chair hammock and slept. I didn't even miss the family! It was a consensus of Dad and the guides that I shouldn't attempt the climb or the canopy because of my ankle. I really appreciated the hour-long nap.

This was our view for the two-hour ride up river to the animal reserve. Actually, we passed several gold mining barges, some more sophisticated than others. The least sophisticated was the one-man operation diver who panned for gold just off shore. We wondered if he was aware of the caymen, the pirahnas, and sting rays that hang out just off shore...

These pictures are not quite in order. This is the beginning of the path to the mouth of the lake where we boarded another boat. Our guides paddled probably 45 minutes to reach the dock to the lodge.

I love this shot! Hernan, our Quecua guide, who knew these parts well, is at the back. Emma's face reads a bit of "when will this boat ride end. We all were a bit apprehensive on the ride to the lodge. What did make the trip interesting was the water birds and shore scenery.

One of the days we tied up to a dock for a walk into the jungle to see the largest tree in the forest. It was a short, wonderfully interesting walk. The next few pictures are shore shots.

You can see the bird just to the right of center. The bird looked like a turkey buzzard, but it was not. I wish we had written the names of all the creatures we saw. No one had a pen or paper handy.

When we first boarded the boat which really reminded me of "The African Queen" at Puerto Maldonado, Hernan gave us all lunch made by his wife, a rice tamale filled with a chicken mixture and wrapped in banana leaves. It was really flavorful, but the amount of rice in each "package" could have fed a family of four.The brightly colored, hand made hat is from the hotel in Puno. Was I ever glad I bought that!

Spencer asked Hernan to catch a pirahna for him. No problema! Hernan and Javier put meat on the end of a piece of twine, dropped it into the water just off shore and in five minutes Spencer had his fish. Mean looking thing for sure, but Hernan assured us they don't attack swimmers in a frenzy. He says that's "Hollywood."

Speaking of mean looking things, look at all the spider nests at the base of this tree. I took this picture from the boat and was happy we weren't on shore. When we were walking through the jungle at the reserve, Hernan coaxed a tarantula out of it's hollowed out log nest with a long flexible stick he made after stripping off the leaves. The tarantula was as big as my hand and very hairy. He was also perturbed to have been disturbed.

This is one of the birds we saw from the canoe. We saw whole families of turtles hanging out on drift wood or tree trunks which protruded into the lake. They were hard to get on camera because the dropped into the water at the first sign of man or paddle.

This is one of the two huge trees we made a special stop to see. Spencer is standing against a root of the tree.

You can barely see the large ants hard at work. There is an ant under this leaf which the have somehow scissored off. Another ant is along for the ride.

This is a better shot of the ants hard at work. Notice how big they are. They are poisonous, but they are also edible!

Hernan and Javier led us into the deep jungle from this path to show us macaws and other in the wild.

The ride up the river to the lake was really scenic. One island was just big enough for one person and maybe a pup tent. We wondered if it were for sale. Probably it was owned by ants and tarantulas who wouldn't want to sell property to man.

We're none the worse for wear here as we travel out of the jungle to return to Puerto Maldonado.

Both nights we were at the Mehia Family Lodge, Hernan and Javier took the kids, Margaret and Ted and Stuart cayman hunting. I stayed behind because the stairs down to the water were rickety enough in the daytime much less at night. I was using a walking stick by then and was keenly aware how easy it would be to fall. My ankle was really stressed by the time we got to the jungle.

Everyone was directed to shine their flashlights against the shore. Green eyes shone back at them. Hernan paddled over to the shore, stuck his hand in and brought up a cayman by the nape of his neck. As long as he had the cayman by the back of the neck, it couldn't lash out at him. The kids loved it.

We loved being out on the canoe late in the day when the shadows were long. This is a scenic shot we passed going on and coming from side trips.

We shot this picture to have an example of the large canoe we were on while at the lodge and on the lake. We traveled upriver on Hernan's larger boat.

This is the trecherous path from the lodge to the river. You can see how hard it would be to navigate it by night.

Bless Ted! He walked me up the steps the last night. We were all dragging.

This is the point at which we enter the jungle. We are with Javier, our guide and owner of Moroni Tours located in Cusco. He joined us in the jungle because he loves being there. We flew from Cusco to Puerto Maldonado in 35 mintues. He took an overnight bus to save money!

This man passed us at quite a clip. He had provisions for the Mehia Family Lodge.

Javier and Hernan had tied up the canoe and were on their way up to the lodge for dinner. About the lodge--I don't know why I didn't take pictures of the screened building where we ate breakfasts and dinners. The sleeping cabins were just that--two single beds against two walls, mosquito nets over each bed, a candle and matches. No nails or hooks to hang coats or clothes on. The bathrooms were one-room, one potty shacks. The shower was so dirty we didn't shower for three days. The grounds were dirt and plants, actually not bad. The family lived in a shack at the back of the eating hall. We think the chickens we ate were running around earlier in the day. We don't know where the beef came from. The meals were simple but good. We were worried about the limonada offered, but the owner assured us the water had been boiled. We drank hot herb tea morning and night, really delicious and comforting.

Stuart and I are sitting on the parasite plant or roots. Eventually this "tree" will strangle the massive one above us. I guess it's an example of the survival of the fittest in the jungle.

This is a fun Jeffries Family foto. Emma, Spencer, and Kate climbed all over these roots. One tree had a thick vine that they swung from just like Tarzan.

Behind Margaret, Ted, and Kids is the departing point into the jungle and up the river to the Mehia's. This picture was taken the day we left the jungle. The two hour hike out to the river seemed much longer than it was the day we walked in. Oh, by the way, on this tributary, we saw a dead sting ray. Anyone want to go swimming?

One of the big birds was hanging out on the path to the lodge.

The jungle debris on the dirt dock had to be swept each day by a young fellow who looked an awfully lot like a North American Indian. It wasn't too far upstream we saw the dead sting ray,

This is the first picture we took entering the narrow water way to the lake. What could lie beyond, we wondered. Well, we had a true jungle experience, not the easiest, the conditions not the best, but it was a fine adventure. We all wondered if Walt Disney had stayed at the Mehia Family Lodge before creating his Jungle Adventure for Adventure Land.

You Tarzan Me Jane

Our jungle experience, the last adventure in our 10-day trip with the Jeffries family, began with moto taxi rides from the Puerto Maldonado Airport. This isn't a tourist experience--moto taxis, motorcycles, and bicycles are the means of transportation in Puerto Maldonado, the gateway to the selva. We saw very few cars in the three days we were in the jungle.

We were met by Waati and her husband Ronald (the first picture) who own the Anaconda Lodge, a favorite place of President and Hna. Tyler of the Lima Central Mission. While the Cusco area was still in their mission, they stayed at the lodge often while visiting their missionaries. Now Cusco is a mission! This picture was taken just before we left. Because we knew the Tylers and their office couple, Kay and Karen Cleverly, we were immediately taken in by Ronald and Waati. The Tylers and Cleverleys had told us about Waati's superb Thai food. We weren't disappointed. Ted and Margaret, who love Thai food, pronounced hers as the best they had ever eaten.

Gardeners often refer to unweeded gardens as jungles. Well, this garden is the real thing! Tarantulas love the banana leaves which are used to wrap food in, for one thing. Waati wrapped the left-over patii for Margaret and Ted to take with them on their last adventure to the Paracas Reserve.

Like the monkeys we enjoyed just hangin' around on the front porch of our little casita.

Rachel took a liking to us immediately. She talked incessantly, trying to communicate. She enjoyed climbing on our backs, legs, heads and hanging from the thatched roof, the beams, and the hammocks.

I took this picture of her climbing from my legs to the hammock. I wish there were some way to have recorded her chatter. Whatever she was telling us was important to her.

This caramel colored monkey must have been a toddler. He put on quite an act. He hung from Kate's shorts, curled up in a ball, tied himself in knots, and stretched out like a cat. He wanted to be held but only for a short time.

Just before I took this picture, he climbed into a clay pot filled with dirt and rocks, fished out a rock, and sat chewing on it. Then he threw the rock under the porch and attacked Kate playfully.

Rachel played with Dad for quite some time. She was the first to come on the porch, followed later by the caramel monkey and a tiny spider monkey.

The caramel monkey was a comedian and acrobat. He got himself into the hammock, swung in it for a while and then realized he couldn't get out of it. Kate had to untangle him.

Face off! These two tangled and played together. Our porch seemed to be their favorite hangout, but they visited other casitas as well.

There was another black monkey like Rachel. These monkeys are free to come and go. Waati feeds them and takes care of them. Many have come from Puerto Maldonado residents who cannot keep them as pets. They know her reputation as one who will rehabilitate and care for the monkeys

You Don't Need to Leave Home to Travel to Far Away Places

No matter where I am in the world, I love attending Relief Society for the sisterhood and what I learn and feel. This past month has been especially enlightening, informative, and just plain fun. One night, at a despedida for two families moving back to the USA, one of the members of the La Molina Ward asked me to teach her how to make brownies. Within a month the Relief Society presidency had called me to ask me to teach the sisters how to make brownies. She also invited me to attend Relief Society the night the Bolivian sisters were talking about culture, foods, and dress of Bolivia. I had missed the Colombianas which I heard was an event. Last night the sisters from Guatemala--Guatemaltecas--presented the program of foods, costumes, and traditions. Our Area DTA (director of temporal affairs) who is from Guatemala showed a 20-minute film of the regions, ethnicities, languages, costumes, dances, and tourist attractions. His wife Rosie is a member of the Relief Society presidency. She is the one who asked me to teach making brownies.

The colorful facade of this cathedral reallly enchanted me. I am surprised the camera caught it because the scenes of the video changed rapidly.

This picture set the stage for a high adventure, 20-minute video of all things Guatemala.

The colors in this picture repeat the colors of the cathedral which speak of infinite sunshine. There are three very active volcanoes near Guatemala City which create really fertile land and a strong ecosystem.

Rosie Ramos and Karin Utria and her daughter presented the program.

The frijole pizza is in the foreground. The moist and flavorful tamale is at the back. I liked this tamale ever so much better than the Peruvian tamale because the corn is sweeter, more moist, and smoother and the spices are stronger. A platano (banana like fruit) was fried in a lightly oiled pan and wrapped in some kind of dough. I want that recipe.


Two weeks ago what started as a request for a brownie demonstration turned into a a night of all things North American.

Notice our native dress. What's more American than red, white, and levis???

We demonstrated making floats-specifically root beer floats. Brooke (in front next to me) can get the root beer only at the US Embassy, but the sisters now know how to use any gaseosa to make a float. The sisters loved the floats! We served the fruited jello salad, Toll House Cookies, Mrs. Fields cookies, peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, and popcorn and, of course, the brownies. We told the history of each offering as well.

"This is root beer." I had to explain them what "root" meant, how it could be made at home, and that it was not beer.

This was my very first food demonstration. I practiced teaching the steps in espanol with the help of my tutor. It went well much to my relief and surprise.

The other Hermanas served the root beer floats while I told the history of brownies. Then I demonstrated how to make them. I made a double batch of layered mint brownies (Emily Chambers' recipe in the ward cookbook). Just finding the mint (menta) was an adventure. Graciela took me to a hole-in-the-wall pastry store the district of Lince (between San Isidro and Mireflores) for the mint. It is not available in supermarkets except at Christmas time. Someone in the ward will go to this little store and buy it for sisters who want to try the recipe. I also made Denece Paxton's recipe which is in the old ward cookbook. It is a classic brownie recipe. I made two box mixes so the sisters could taste the difference between homemade and boxed. The texture is also different. Boxed is not bad!

Each of us pointed out on the map where we live in the USA. I also pointed out Pennsylvania where Dad and I were born. One Hermana is from Seattle, one from Atlanta, one from Los Angeles, one from Bountiful, another from Salt Lake City, and another from Orem.

Six missionaries and one NA young mother made up the team of cooks. Brooke and her husband put together an inspiring power point of slides and videos of life in North America. She had videos of the swing, the jitterbug, the bop and twist, and ball room dancing. The slides of the regions and great cities of the USA played to Whitney Houston's stirring rendition of God Bless America.

This young mother was the sole presenter for the Bolivian night, but many members helped her with the cooking, an amazing array of foods. Another sister demonstrated the dress and dances of Bolivia. Again Bro. Ramos was there to show their power point.

This picture is realy fun. They asked everyone in attendance to post for a picture. The Bolivian night was the second of the cultural nights. Colombia was first and Peru will be next week.

Celebrating Peru's Independence

Peru celebrated its independence from Spain all the month of July. The actual Independence Day is July 28, 1821. Dad and I were at the Mireflores Marriott. In the morning we watched a small military parade on the main level of Larco Mar Mall. At the end of the march the employees from restaurants and shops fell in behind the soldiers and marched with them.



The preparations for the celebration have been going on since May when the homeowners in our neighborhood started repainting their homes, sanding and polishing their beautifully carved doors and garage doors, cleaning yards, and even remodeling homes. It's the Peruvian version of spring cleaning a friend told us.



Every apartment building and home was adorned with a large flag and street vendors sold flags and pins in the street and on corners. One of the custodians at the CCM brought us a large flag and a small standing flag. We taped the large flag to our corner window. We learned an interesting fact from our driver: anyone who does not fly the flag during the month of July can be fined.




The CCM/MTC kitchen staff celebrated the independence day by preparing and serving a staggering array of Peruvian cuisine--at least six different main dishes of beef, pork, and chicken, tamales, papas puree (a thin and flavorful version of our mashed potatoes), beans, two kinds of rice, several vegetarian and meat salads, tropical fruits, soups, and six different desserts. It was an all-you-can-eat meal.

Peruvans know their breads or pan which come in all shapes and sizes and flavors. Our favorite is pan camote or sweet potato bread, but another favorite is a tiny, sweet roll peppered with anise seeds. This is one of the missionary's plates. I just had to take a picture. He has three different kinds of bread, three desserts, a heaping plate of both rice dishes, lomo saltado (a meat casserole always served with rice and potatoes), a fat chicken leg with thigh, and palitos--marinated beef on a stick.

These are some of the Hermanas. There are six North Americans and eighteen Latinas from all of the five countries in the Area and Nicaragua. In this group are four missionaries going to Mexico. The North American Elders outnumber the Latinos for the first time since we have been here.

This father is one of the teachers at the CCM. Is that baby cute enough?

Carved fruits and vegetables are common table decorations here.

. The clay pots, one of many cottage industries, are produced near Lima. Most restaurants use only the clay pots for baking and serving the different cooked dishes. Sauces are served in the clay pots as well.

The bread basket was a work of art with several kinds of rolls and bread sticks. To the left of the basket is a swan carved from a cantalope.

Several of the missionary couples went to the National Museum of Peru to see the crafts fair which was there only for the month. Every major city in Peru was there to show and celebrate their local crafts.

Dad and I bought a small, one-piece ceramic nativity from this man. He carved lines into the roof of the creche while we stood there to show us how he does his art. The roof is an interpretation of the Inca hat which is so popular.

This colorfully dressed family from the mountains has a textiles business. I bought a white knit neck scarf. The mother was knitting a multicolored scarf while I stood there looking at all their creations.

I wish I could have taken a frontal picture. This guy was as rough looking as his boots.